Cake Crop

cake crop

Download PDF-file here

Before you begin! Some videos linked in this pattern contain Danish language as that is the native language of the author. All videos, however, are still useful at they provide an excellent visual guide on how to use the different techniques required for knitting the Cake Crop. 

This simple t-shirt is knitted from the bottom up with raglan-increases and moss-rib. The t-shirt itself is quite simple, however, a splash of detail is added via the special yarn featuring colour runs as well as the offset sleeves. The t-shirt has a loose fit and the pattern is designed for at crop top, but the length of the shirt can be extended according to preference. The t-shirt is knitted in Shamrock Yarns Cake and Shamrock Yarns 100% Cotton 8/4

Size

Sizes: S (M) L (XL)

Chest measurement: ca. 106 (108) 110 (115) cm

Tools

Materials

Abbreviations

s = stitch(es)

r = round

i = increase

i-l = increase shifting left (see technique guide)

i-r = increase shifting to the right (see technique guide)

sm = stitch marker

k = knit stitch

p = purl

Tension: 20s x 29r (unwashed)

Technique guide

Note: The guides contain videos with danish voiceovers. However, they still provide a nice, visual explanation. 

View guides for:

Step by step

Cast 104 (108) 116 (122) s on circular knitting needle 3 with 1 thread of cake and one thread of cotton. Knit 5 r in rib (1k, 1p). This is the neck rib of the t-shirt.

Switch to needle 3.5

Now the t-shirt must be separated into back-piece, front-piece and sleeves while knitting around in stocking stitches.

Knit 20 (21) 23 (25) s, put on a sm, work 3 k s (raglan), put on a s-m, knit 6 (6) 6 (6) s (left shoulder), put on a sm, work 3 k s (raglan), pun on a sm, knit 40 (42) 46 (49) s (front-side), work 3 k s (raglan), put on a sm, knit 6 (6) 6 (6) (right shoulder), put on a sm, work 3 k s (raglan), put on a sm, knit the remaining 20 (21) 23 (24).

Raglan

And now on to knit the yoke wherein there is increases in raglan. This is achieved by knitting increases on every second round. Be aware: after the first round with increases, short rows begin. See explanation below. Due to the complexity of both increases and short rows at the same time, I suggest you read both chapters before you start knitting (‘raglan’ and ‘short rows’).

*Knit until the first s-m, make an i-r, move sm, knit 1k, 1p, 1k, move sm, make an i-l, knit garter until third sm, make an i-r, move sm, knit 1k, 1p, 1k, move sm, make an i-l, knit garter until fifth sm, make an i-r, move sm, knit 1k, 1p, 1k, move sm, make an i-l, knit garter until seventh sm, make an i-r, move sm, knit 1k, 1p, 1k move sm, make an i-l, knit garter until the round marker.

Knit one round garter *repeat*-*29 (32) 35 (38) rounds in total.

You now have 336 (364) 396 (426) s.

Short rows

And now for the short rows. They are knitted back and forth across the round-start on the back. I recommend using the “german shortrow” technique. You will have to knit short rows while simultaneously making increases by raglan every second round. (Raglan explanation further up). Be aware of the differences of knitting increases on the garter and purl side of the two sides of the round marker due to knitting back and forth. Place a sm in the middle of the front (middle marker) which is used while knitting short rows.

The short rows are knitted as following: Work k until 21 s before the middle marker, turn with the German technique (where the project is turned, move the last knitted mask loosely over and pull the yarn over the top – if needed, look it up on YouTube). Knit p back to the round marker, remember increases by the raglan markers (You need to knit p, k, p between the increases). Knit “the other side” in p but without increases until 21 s before the middle marker. Turn again using the German technique. Now knit back to the round marker in k while making increases by the raglan markers and knit k, p, k between the markers.

That is the first two short rows sorted out.

*Now you work k without increases until you are 2 s past the last turn. Turn again and knit p back to the stitch marker with increases by the raglan markers and p, k, p between the raglan markers. On the other side of the middle marker, you continue in p but without increases until 2 s past the last turn. Turn again and work k, with increases by the raglan markers and k, p, k between the raglan markers. *repeat*-*3 times in total.

Thereafter *-* is repeated another 2 times, with the change that you now must knit 4 s past the last turn.

You are now done with the short rows. Continue as explained in the raglan chapter further up.

The body

Now you must put the arm-loops down. The arm-loops are the 64 (70) 76 (82) stitches between the two raglan-pieces on each side, the three raglan s on each side are included in the body. You have two options:

1) If you wish for the i-cord edge of the sleeves to follow the colour run of the rest of the shirt, do as follows: Start by the stitch marker and work k until the second stitch marker (remove the 1. stitch marker as you go), take the stitch marker off and fasten off the next 64 (70) 76 (82) with an i-cord edge, remove the third stitch marker. Work k until the sixth middle marker (remove the fourth and fifth stitch marker as you go), take the stitch marker and fasten off 64 (70) 76 (82) s as well using an i-cord edge, remove the seventh stitch marker. Work k until the round start (and remove the eighth stitch marker as you go). On the next round, cast on 4 s under both armholes, thereby the project gets put together so you can continue knitting around. (Using this method, the sleeves are now finished.)

2) If you wish for the I-cord edge to have the same colour as the bottom rib of the shirt, do as follows: Start by the round marker and work k until the second stitch marker (remove the first stitch marker as you go), remove the stitch marker put the next 64 (70) 76 (82) s to rest. Cast on 4 s under the armhole, remove the third stitch marker. Work k until the sixth stitch marker (remove the fourth and fifth stitch marker as you go), remove the stitch marker and put these 64 (70) 76 (82) s to rest as well, cast on 4 s under the armhole and remove the seventh stitch marker. Work k until the start of the round (and remove the eighth stitch marker as you go). (The arms are finished by following the instructions listed below).

The body now has 216 (232) 252 (270) s.

You now must knit around in stocking stitches until the shirt has a length of approx. 44 (45) 46 (48) cm measured from the start of the stocking stitches in the neck or until the t-shirt has the preferred length of your choice.

Now close with an icord rib. See technique guide further up.

Sleeves

Connect the 64 (70) 76 (82) s you put to rest earlier. Now fasten off the edge with an i-cord. Note: You don’t have to join the s under the sleeves, the loops under the sleeve are left “un-knitted”. I-cord edges are only needed on the loops you put to rest earlier. See image below.

Assembly/finishing

Fasten all the loose ends and wash the t-shirt. You are more than welcome to share pictures of your work with #cakecrop #ritokrea @krea_lea @ritohobby.co.uk

Designed by: Lea Hansen (@krea_lea)

Version: v2.c597.s4.l5